While I admit to deep skepticism about this whole odor effects thing, as I’ve been experimenting, it seems to pan out.

I want to make Black Iris work in the same way as Coty’s Chypre. I don’t mean to make it smell the same, but I want it to be both sultry and exalting. Black Iris now includes floral aspects (narcotic) and woody/spicy notes (stimulating), creating tension as these two are directly opposed on the Odor Effects Diagram. It needs erogenic notes and anti-erogenic notes as well as notes that occur between poles, namely sultry and exalting fragrances.

To create the sultry effect, shown on the line between narcotic and erogenic, I added costausol, a substitute for costus root. Costus root smells like wet dogs and, while it doesn’t appeal to me, I appreciate how it provides a useful animalic note. It also has a peculiar root-like aspect that goes well with iris. Unfortunately, it’s banned in places, including the E.U. So, costausol, a costus-like synthetic, it is.

The costausol energized the perfume and gave it depth. I added a trace of coriander (stimulating) which stretched some of the iris character into the top notes. Iso-eugenol, which smells like cloves, also came to mind. I added a trace.

I added ambergris, which gives vibrancy and finesse and adds another erogenic note.

Thinking of an aldehyde to add sparkle, I referred to Poucher (in my new acquisition, the second edition (1925) of Perfumes Cosmetics & Soaps) who says that aldehyde C-10—which he lists as erogenous--is the best for iris compounds.

Jellinek, lists few exalting substances, several aldehydes, two aroma chemicals, and three naturals. Given the paucity of such ingredients, the best approach is to build up the erogenic and spicy elements to create the exalting effect.

As progress has been made, I’ve changed from Black Iris to Green Iris because the character of the perfume is so bright and green. Here is the odor effects diagram with some of the ingredients used in Green Iris.