Magnolia

Magnolia Essential Oil: 4 Milliliters

Magnolia Flowers (Steele): 3 Milliliters

Magnolia Flower Essential Oil: 15 Milliliters

Magnolia Heart Note (Perfumer’s Apprentice): 4 Milliliters

Cost: $95

When I was in the throws of my perfume project, I had never thought about magnolia as a source of inspiration or a source for the rare absolutes and essential oils I was collecting then.

One spring afternoon, I noticed the neighbor’s front yard. They had a magnolia tree that had left the ground covered with white petals. I didn’t have to hold one to my nose to detect the scent, one of subtle putrefaction combined with something fresh and floral.

It occurred to me that magnolia anticipates its own death in a way. I loved the contrast between minor and major keys. The aroma of decay was irresistible. I rushed home to the lab.

It was a while back, so I don’t remember all that went into it. It’s no doubt buried in my notes somewhere. But I do remember a couple of things. I was enthralled with tomato leaf absolute. It had a similar facet to my neighbor’s tree. Leaf alcohol, a synthetic has a facet too, but it doesn’t last very long. There was a synthetic called Suederal that smells just like its name implies. I figured once I got the leather/decay note under control, that I would start working on its floral aspects. I labored on them for a few weeks, before one afternoon, I felt that I had really found it. I smelled it in various settings and decided that we (Brooklyn Perfume Company) would market it.

Marketing a new perfume, even on the small scale we used, is a big deal. We had to bottle (or so I thought) a significant amount, change the website, change the brochures, and any number of advertisements.

A few weeks after all this, I came home after a late-night party, and for no reason I can imagine, I put some on. I’m walking around the apartment complimenting myself for its radiance, its tenacity, its floral power.

I’ve encountered cloying things in my life—certain wines come to mind—but I'd never experienced it.

After about 20 minutes, the cloy is in full tilt, and I’m screaming, “Get it off! Get it off!” I’m scrubbing myself with alcohol, but the stuff is so persistent, I can’t get it off. Since then, I can’t bear the smell of the stuff.

Don’t worry, we’re not foisting off the perfume on you now, but this collection is enough to form the core for a small amount of your own version of magnolia. The magnolia absolutes combine to form a complex floral cocktail.

Each aroma in the collection contains a different facet. The clear “Magnolia heart note,” is the most direct. I can’t tell, but it may contain synthetics. The “Magnolia flower” from Liberty Natural is quite good and is, indeed, natural. The Steele steals the show with its depth, complexity, and elegance.

In an ideal world, I’d stick with the Steele, as I do whenever he’s involved. However, his stuff is very expensive. While I use it, I usually combine it with something still high-quality to support the Steele.